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Craft village

Chợ Mới

Wood carving on the islands of the Hậu river: altars, doors and the carved panels of the Mekong's houses, from workshops that learned on the region's temples.

A Chợ Mới carver cutting a deep relief into a hardwood panel, carved doors and altars stacked in the workshop, Chợ Mới village, Mekong Delta, Vietnam
A Chợ Mới carver cutting a deep relief into a hardwood panel, carved doors and altars stacked in the workshop, Chợ Mới village, Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Wood carving on the islands of the Hậu river: altars, doors and the carved panels of the Mekong's houses, from workshops that learned on the region's temples.

Craft
Wood carvingMộc
Where
An Giang
Practised since
c. 100 yearsCarving for the Mekong's houses
Material
HardwoodRelief carving
On LangSoul
RecordedNot yet carried

01 — The story

Carving for the houses of the delta

The altars, doors and panels of Mekong houses came from island workshops like those of Chợ Mới.

The altars, doors and panels of Mekong houses came from island workshops like those of Chợ Mới.

Chợ Mới is a district of islands and channels between the Tiền and Hậu rivers, rich with orchards and with the wealth they brought. In the early twentieth century, as Mekong families built larger wooden houses, they needed carved altars, doors, screens and the lacquered boards that hang above the ancestral altar. Carpenters who had worked on the region’s temples and communal houses set up workshops on the islands to supply them, and the district became known across An Giang for its woodwork.

The workshops still work, though what they make has shifted. Much of the output is furniture, and modern machines now rough out work that was once all done by hand. But altars and carved panels are still ordered for new houses and temples, and a carver sitting on the floor of an open workshop, chisels laid out in a row, is still a common sight. The best pieces are often finished with lacquer and gilding, in the warm red and gold the south prefers.

Look at the depth and the undercutting. Good relief carving has layers: leaves in front of branches, birds in front of leaves, with shadows cut in behind. The chisel marks on visible faces should be clean and confident, not furry. In pierced panels, check that thin parts follow the grain so they will not snap. Joinery matters as much as carving; a well-made altar is assembled with wooden joints that close tightly.

02 — The technique

What makes Chợ Mới carving

The carving is planned from the wood outward, and the depth of a panel is decided before the first cut.

I

Choosing the wood

Seasoned hardwood is chosen for close, even grain that will hold fine detail without splitting.

II

Drawing on the board

The design, often flowers, birds or auspicious creatures, is drawn straight onto the wood or transferred from a paper pattern.

III

Relief and piercing

The background is cut away in stages, from bold roughing to fine detail, and openwork is pierced right through.

IV

Finished with colour

Many pieces are lacquered red and gilded, especially altars and the boards that hang above them.

Words you will meet

Chạm nổi

Relief carving, with the design standing out from the background.

Chạm lộng

Pierced or openwork carving.

Bàn thờ

Ancestral altar, the centre of the Vietnamese home.

Hoành phi

Carved horizontal board inscribed with characters, hung above the altar.

03 — Visiting

Visiting Chợ Mới

Chợ Mới is reached by road and ferry from Long Xuyên, and workshops line the roads of several of its communes rather than one single village. Carvers are generally happy to be watched if you keep a respectful distance from their tools. Write to us if you would like an introduction.

From Cần Thơ
About two hours by car and ferry
Best season
December to April, the dry season
Look for
Layered relief with clean chisel marks
Ask about a visit Ask about a visit

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