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Craft village

Mỹ Nghiệp

Cham brocade woven on backstrap looms, the patterns — dragons, flowers, the tower — held in memory and counted thread by thread.

A Cham weaver at a backstrap loom in Mỹ Nghiệp, bright red and gold brocade, bare earth floor, Mỹ Nghiệp village, central coast, Vietnam
A Cham weaver at a backstrap loom in Mỹ Nghiệp, bright red and gold brocade, bare earth floor, Mỹ Nghiệp village, central coast, Vietnam

Cham brocade woven on backstrap looms, the patterns — dragons, flowers, the tower — held in memory and counted thread by thread.

Craft
Cham brocadeDệt Chăm
Where
Ninh Phước, Ninh Thuận
Practised since
GenerationsBackstrap looms
Material
Cotton and silkPlant and mineral dyes
On LangSoul
RecordedNot yet carried

01 — The story

Patterns counted in memory

A Mỹ Nghiệp weaver carries the pattern in her head, and counts it into the cloth one thread at a time.

A Mỹ Nghiệp weaver carries the pattern in her head, and counts it into the cloth one thread at a time.

Mỹ Nghiệp is a Cham village in Ninh Thuận, close to Bàu Trúc and a short way from Phan Rang. Cham weaving here is old, and the cloth has long been part of Cham life: clothing for daily wear, sashes and shawls, and textiles for weddings, funerals and the ceremonies at the temple towers. Women weave, and girls traditionally learned at home, sitting beside their mothers until the patterns became familiar.

Today the village weaves on two kinds of loom. The narrow backstrap loom, tensioned by the weaver’s own body, is used for the most traditional pieces, and larger frame looms are used for wider cloth and for the bags, scarves and runners that are sold to visitors and shops. Commercial cotton and synthetic yarns with chemical dyes are now common, and plant and mineral dyes are kept by fewer weavers. A cooperative and family workshops in the village show and sell the work. A single wide piece can take a weaver many days, and complex patterns are slower still, which is worth remembering when comparing prices. Most weavers fit the work around farming and family.

Good Mỹ Nghiệp brocade has dense, even weaving with tight selvedges, and patterns that line up across repeats without drift. The traditional motifs, including flowers, diamonds, dragons and stylised temple towers, should be crisp. Natural-dyed cloth has softer, slightly uneven colour, and it is worth asking which you are looking at.

02 — The technique

What makes Mỹ Nghiệp Cham brocade

The pattern is not drawn anywhere; it lives in the weaver's counting.

I

Dyeing the yarn

Yarn is dyed before weaving, traditionally with plants, bark and earth; today often with commercial dyes.

II

Backstrap loom

The warp is stretched between a fixed bar and a strap around the weaver's back, who controls tension by leaning.

III

Supplementary weft

Patterns are made by passing extra coloured threads over and under counted warp threads, row by row.

IV

Held in memory

Motifs are counted from memory, and each weaver has a repertoire learned from the women of her family.

Words you will meet

Thổ cẩm

Brocade, patterned handwoven cloth of Vietnam's minority peoples.

Dệt

To weave.

Khung dệt

Loom.

03 — Visiting

Visiting Mỹ Nghiệp

Mỹ Nghiệp is easily paired with Bàu Trúc in a single morning from Phan Rang. Weavers are usually happy to show the loom; ask before photographing and buy directly from the woman who made the piece when you can. LangSoul does not run trips here, but readers can write to us for an introduction.

From Phan Rang
About 20 minutes by car
Best season
December to August; the Katê festival falls in autumn
Look for
Tight selvedges, even repeats and, if you can find it, natural dye
Ask about a visit Ask about a visit

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